Friday, August 7, 2015
Golfing Old Head Part 1
The first golf round we played on our trip to Ireland was at Old Head Golf Links at Old Head of Kinsale. Kinsale is a lovely little town in Cork County on the south central coast of Ireland. Kinsale is unbelievable, a town so pretty everywhere you look is like viewing a living postcard. The Kinsale harbor was an important nexus for several of Ireland's most historic events and a walking tour of the town is highly recommended.
The drive out to the headlands of Old Head is a quick 20 minute route from Kinsale through lush green fields along the coast. In a country filled with spectacular scenery, this area is a stand-out. The headlands jut out almost 2 miles into the sea. As you first enter the peninsula you pass through a small village and wind your way through the hills on the narrow roads.
The drive continues until you come to an old ruined wall fortification that has been converted into the gatehouse for the golf course and resort.
Advancing passed the gatehouse is apparently reserved for golfers and guests. A shame as the scenery beyond is spectacular. There are local protests and a movement to make more of the headlands open to the public. We checked in at the gate and were waved through to drive the final distance to the course proper.
Along the way you catch a glimpse of the first hole that is visible, off to the left. This is the 13th hole, hanging from the edge of the cliff. As we came upon this vista, both Lisa and I turned to each other and said "We didn't bring enough golf balls!".
Just when you think the views can't get any better, you turn a corner, take a rise and behold the course with the lighthouse in the background. Yowzers!!! I was just blown away by this place and I hand't even gotten out of the car.
A short distance more and you come upon the car park just a quick walk from the club house. The parking lot was full of Sprinter
vans dropping off groups of dudes all having the times of their lives, I am sure. Walking up the path from the car park you are greeted by a Gaelic welcome en route to the clubhouse.
The entrance to the clubhouse is flanked by an imposing pair of large canine statues. A very masculine feel to the place.
Entering the clubhouse you encounter a wall of glass with the Old Head lighthouse directly in front of you. To the left is the pro shop, and next to that is the bar, with the dining rooms beyond that. TO the right as you enter is a concierge desk and the locker rooms. A large painted mural outside the men's locker room highlights some of the historical facts of the lighthouse.
History
Old Head has long been settled by groups of people. There are several very ancient ruins on the headlands, some even are incorporated right into the course layout. The Erainn people made Old Head the seat of their kingdom and they maintained the stronghold Dun Cearmna here until the 10th century when the Vikings landed and settled the area.
There have been several lighthouses on Old Head. The are mentions of lighthouses here since pre-christian times. The earliest surviving one was built in 1666. It was a cottage style building and was lit by burning a coal fire atop the roof of the "lighthouse.". Another lighthouse was built near this one in the 1700s after the first fell into disuse. Both of these lights are on the east side of the headlands, facing Kinsale harbor. The iconic current lighthouse, built on the west coast, was built in 1853 for just over 10,000 pounds. A cannon operated fog station was added shortly after in 1895 and a paraffin light in 1907. IN 1972 the light and canon were replaced by the modern light and siren used now. Since 1987 the lighthouse has been automated.
Perhaps the most infamous history of Old Head is tied not to the land itself, but just offshore where the Lusitania was hit by a German U boat torpedo and sank in 18 minutes on May 7, 1915. It was just past the 100 year anniversary of this date when we were here and the town of Kinsale had several banners and their museum commemorating the event. The ship went down with 1,195 souls and 764 survivors. 128 of 139 US passengers perished. While it did not directly lead to the US entering the 1st world war, subsequent escalation of submarine warfare on merchant ships eventually did cause the US to declare war on Germany.
Back to the Course
All of the staff we worked with inside were very friendly. We checked in and paid and found out the information regarding the caddies and where to pick up the rental clubs. A quick look around the pro shop at all of the very high end merchandise and we were off to the practice area to warm up before our round.
Stepping out onto the balcony first and I knew just how special this place is. I am certain when I tell you this is the most picturesque golf course I have ever had the pleasure of seeing or playing. The most comparable course that comes to mind for me is Pebble Beach but this is like Pebble on steroids. Ocean views abound but you are elevated far above the sea, sometimes some 300 feet or more. This has to be one of the most picturesque properties you could imagine for a course.
The course was opened in 1997 and was built by a group of designers. Ron Kirby, Paddy Merrigan, Liam Higgins, Eddie Hackett, and Dr. Joe Carr. The course is spread over 180 acres of the 220 acre property. It is an immense course and one rarely feels or sees other holes or players. 9 of the holes play right along the cliffs and the other 9 all share stunning views.
With the course raised high above the sea and jutting far out to sea the courses biggest defense has to be the winds that blow in here. On the day we played the winds were minimal and we even enjoyed a mostly sunny day. How lucky are we?!
The course was designed as a walking experience. It is semi-private and players are encouraged to walk the course with caddies. Old Head's caddie program is renowned in Ireland.
The course offers 5 sets of tees to take on its layout, which consists of 5 par fives, 5 par threes, and 8 par fours. From the tips the course plays to 7,069 yards. From the Forward tees, it is down to 5,345 yards. The specifics are as follows:
Black 7,069 yards 133/74.0
Blue 6,793 yards 131/72.0
White 6,508 yards 127/70.0
Yellow 5,763 yards 121/69.0
Red 4,790 yards 120/69.4
There is a full driving range with complementary range balls, as well as a large putting area and chipping practice grounds.
The range was large and had plenty of yardage markers to warm up with. I only got about 5 swings in before our tee time.
A large chipping and sand area is provided, though I didn't have time to check that out.
The large putting green is set in among wild flowers and stonework. From here you are secluded from the vistas on the course but are steps from the 1st tee.
I was outfitted with all new Titleist irons and woods along with a nice Scotty Cameron putter. All very top notch. Very quickly it was our time to tee off. Our caddie Fargle, took our bags and escorted us to the first tee. We were paired up with 2 guys, Matt and John who happened to be from Chicago. What are the odds? Come several thousand miles across the ocean and you end up playing with people from the Midwest.
On to the course...
Old Head Part 1
Old Head Part 2
Old Head Part 3
Old Head Part 4
Old Head Part 5
Old Head Part 6
Old Head Part 7
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